The other project!

Whilst SP is sat or stood in hibernation, I am now actively looking at my other car which has been fairly neglected over the years. To those who may not know, I also have a 1978 Mini Clubman which originally came with a 998cc engine.  This was bought by my father in 1995, and has been in our family since.  I officially took ownership circa 1996 when I got my driving license.  The Mini was the reason why I got into cars and modding cars.  As you would have expected the Mini did not stay standard for long!  It had so many different stages of modifications that I cannot remember all of them so well now, but just to give an overview, here goes:

1. Changed from 998cc to 1275 A+ engine , done in 1997 in Sg Buloh.
2. In 1998 - changed cams to 270-2 Piper, with upgraded valve spring, and rejetted HIF44 carburettor.
3. In 2000 - bigger pistons 1340cc with 286 Kent rally cams, engine fully balanced and Weber 45 DCOE
4. In 2003 - bigger and high compression pistons 1380cc, 296 Scatter Pattern Kent Cams, engine fully balanced 3.44 Final drive
5. In 2006-2007 - 1399cc, ultralight steel flywheel, 296 SP cams, 3.7 final drive, Aldon Yellow distributor, Fully Ported head, bigger inlet and exhaust valves, full balanced and lightend internals, front mounted radiator setup, etc etc

The reason why I have gone through so many setups, is due to failures, either from component or engine builder.  The best setup I had was no 2 and 3 in that list, everything else was good but the fun did not last for long.  The A series engine for the Mini shares the same oil for engine and gearbox, so if one breaks, high chances you have damaged both, as the debris in the oil goes through the gearbox and engine.

So I had planned for a last massive setup, and bought all the bits for it, include straight cut drop gears, different billet cams, and so on, but decided enough was enough and gave up the chase on the A series engine.  I have the complete engine, with all the bits, some new, some old but with very little mileage, up for grabs.  This includes the carburettor, complete exhaust, and all the relevant ancillaries.  I will probably make a separate posting for the parts for sale.

Just a couple of pics of the Mini in the past glory days..

As my wedding ride 

A series engine, running 45 weber, but not the final version 

 KAD quick shift

Interior, not fully completed

So the decision has been made to ditch the A series, to a............power of dreams, Honda PGM F1 DOHC VTEC engine, most probably from a DC2 B18c R 98 spec :)

So should I continue on this blog or start a new one???

SP's new brakes

Its been 6 long months since I last updated the blog. Apologies, a lot has happend since. Thought that I should update the blog with one of the last mods that I have done on SP. I have been using the Wilwood 4 pot caliper and DBA 276mm discx 25mm thick disc, which is the standard EVO3 disc size btw which came with the car when I purchased it. The brakes were good and offered good pedal pressure and bite. However, the Polymatrix E pads which I was on initially was sometimes a little vague especially on cold days and under hard use. I cannot judge when it was going to give away especially at the track. I also experienced a couple of occasion where I lost the brakes completly esp one on turn 14 doing about 180 kmh, and I generally used to brake close to the 50m mark. It was not a good experience, let me tell you. I was told this could be pad knock back or too much heat.

SP with the old Wilwood 4 pot and DBA single piece disc setup

So I experimented with a different brake pad, Polymatrix B compound, which was really good and helped with the feel, but it was so noisy, almost unbearable, and trips back to the house after mamak sessions made my neighbours shriek. Coming to a traffic light, motorbikes and other cars would look at me wondering why this idiot hasnt got his brakes fixed. But on the track they were marvellous, once they get some heat, the shrieking is less and the bite phenomenal. But I still had cooling issues. So ordered some custom dry CF brake cooling ducts from the UK, and silicon cooling hoses, to mitigate the heat, but this too did not help much.

Dry CF brake ducts with silicon hose

Close up of the dry CF brake duct

Talking with a brake supplier in the US, it was finalized that bigger and thicker discs will be necessary to combat this. The problem with the thicker discs are that my calipers will not fit, so again this had to be upgraded to a 6piston caliper, which also has a larger pad surface area compared to the 4 pots. This will also help to minimize heat transfer to the brake fluids. I took some measurements to design the brake hat and to include a spacer as well and my idea was to try and fit the largest disc possible under 15in rims. This is so that I can use my slicks for track days. So in the end a 305mmx32mm Wilwood two piece disc with aluminium hat was ordered along with my 6 pot Wilwood SLR radial mount calipers. When I received the parts, a couple of things were different, firstly I was expecting a black caliper, but somehow I got the more expensive and bling bling version which was in red and the grooved disc ended being a solid disc. So some emails to the supplier to complain and we ended up with an agreement for future replacement discs.

The 6 pot caliper side view

Another angle, note the staggered pistons

Another view

Bigger and thicker disc, shown without the aluminium hat/bell

Another view, from inside the rotor

Polymatrix B compound pads

I also decided to continue use with the Polymatrix B compound as I was quite happy with them except for the noise factor. This meant that everybody knew I was coming, not by the engine or exhaust noise, but by my brakes! Installation was fairly straight forward as the caliper bracket for the 4 pot Wilwoods could be reused, with the addition of some spacers. Well, after everything was fixed, I also decided to try out the Neo Synthetic Race brake fluid, which has been pretty good so far, thanks GT Auto! After the brakes were bed in, decided to try out the stopping power, and boy it was astonishing, the brakes were a lot better maybe up to 30-40% improvement over the previous setup. This was also confirmed on the track, as the brake did not fade, and I could really stand on the brakes and haul the car down, braking power was fantastic and so far did not experience any fade. However, I did have some problems, this is due to installation rather than the product itself. On the first track session, one of the fitting for the bridge pipe was not tightened properly and brake fluid started to leak from the loose fitting. This resulted in uneven braking pressure on the fronts, and we managed to tighten the fitting with some difficulty. The second problem that I faced was more serious and by luck or Gods grace, we pitted in time before it became even worse. The bridge bolt on the LHS caliper somehow managed to work out loose and was sheared by the spoke of my rims. This then resulted in the brake pads to dislodge itself from its position in the caliper, and started to grind itself on the inside of my SSR type C. The RHS caliper bridge bolt has also started to work out loose, but it wasnt as bad as the LHS. That ended my track day and managed to put the pads back into the caliper and made a temporary repair to hold the brake pads in place. New replacement pads and bolts were ordered from Wilwoods.

As this was part of R&D project, I have made an error on the caliper overall size and due this I am unable to fit the 15in wheel as the caliper is too large to clear the internal dimension of the 15in wheels. So I am now stuck with 16in rims and tyre combo for track day and road use.

Caliper and disc installed

Another view, brackets are machined from 7075 Aluminium

Side view after installation, cant really see the larger rotor here

Another shot of the newly installed brakes



A different view



Other upgrades will be blogged soon.  Watch this space!

Whats New

Sorry it has been a long time since I have updated the blog. I have been very busy with so many things going on especially for my move to Germany. Nevertheless some decisions has been made and I now no longer intend to sell SP. It will be put in dry storage until I am sure of what I want to do.

On a positive note, I have since my last post continued with the development work of SP and have added on the following:

1. R3 stage 2 front lip with additional splitter
2. Upgraded water injection pump - from 150psi to 250 psi
3. New 6 pot Wilwood calipers and Wilwood 300mm two piece discs.
4. New development header from Tonnka - 4-2-1 design
5. New custom airbox from Tonnka
6. Racepak IQ3 Data Logging dash with additional USM module
7. Federal RSR tyres

I have also attended two RCA track day with SP, one in March and the other in July. I have set a PB for SP around SIC at 2m47.1 sec. I am very sure with more chasis and suspension setup, SP is able to go around SIC much quicker.

When I have the time, I will update the blog with more details of the above mods.

SP is for sale

Yes its a shocker and I am not keen to really let it go, but taking the future in consideration, I think this will be the best choice. Been offered a job outside of Malaysia and thinking of taking it up hence this decision. This is not an urgent or desperate sale. I am only going to let it go, if the price is right. SP is in immaculate condition, extremely low mileage and only driven in the dry. Total car mileage is less than 35,000 km and current engine has only done 3500km since rebuild. Super clean and super trick ride with a lot of spares thrown in. Got a set of wheels for track day too!! Here is the current mod list. If interested do give me a ring at 012-335 0607 or email mugil@troxmal.com.my. Serious buyer only, no scammers, no low ballers and no free test drive! Again due to the age of the car, registered 1999, no loan will be available. Would prefer an enthusiast to buy over and continue the development work!

1 Engine
1.1 SR Composites carbon fibre radiator "slam" panel and Ti Bolt
1.2 Koyo Aluminium Race Radiator
1.3 Samco Sport Silicon Radiator Hose
1.4 Ralliart Radiator Cap
1.5 Ralliart Oil Cap
1.6 Crank Scrapper - 3 pc type
1.7 Earls Super Stock Hose and Econofit Clamps - Engine Breather to Airfilter Hose
1.8 ARP Head Stud Kit
1.9 NGK Iriway 7 spark plugs (X4)
1.10 Earl's Oil Cooler 12x5x2, 16 ROW, -8AN
1.11 Earl's Aluminium Oil Cooler Mounting Kit for 16 row
1.12 Earl's -8 to 3/8 NPT adaptor x 4
1.13 Earl's Swivelseal -8 90 deg hose end x 4
1.14 Earl's Autoflex -8 hose
1.15 K&N air filter injection kit
1.16 Mocal Aluminium Sandwich Plate with Thermostat
1.17 Jenvey Dynamic's 45mm SF Individual Throttle Bodies with JD modfied manifold (port matched), 60mm air horns, linkage kit
1.18 All bottom end rotating assemblies fully balanced
1.19 Z. Speed adjustable cam pulleys (X2)
1.20 4G93T engine block including oil jets
1.21 Matspeed race ported cylinder head
1.22 WRC Motorsports fast road engine mounts (X2)
1.23 Ralliart Group N lower front engine mount
1.24 Ralliart Group N lower rear engine mount
1.25 Cusco Oil Catch Tank with additional breather and fitted with SS braided hoses and Earls AN fittings
1.26 SR Composites carbon spark plug cover
1.27 SR Composites carbon timing belt cover
1.28 SR Composites carbon upper radiator support bracket
1.29 Spool Forged Con Rods with ARP 2000 con rod bolts
1.30 Coolingmist Trunk Mounted Water Injection Kit
1.31 Exedy Racing Clutch with Organic Clutch Plate
1.32 ARP Main Stud Kit
1.33 Meek Peformance Aftermarket Hydraulic Lifters x 16pcs
1.34 Meek Evo3 Performance Clutch Slave Pump
1.35 Wiseco Forged Piston 82mm diameter 11.5:1 comp ratio skirt and piston crown ceramic coated, chromoly rings and 19mm piston pin
1.36 Phenolic Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket
1.37 Mytheology Lightened Crank Pulley with Damper
1.38 MMC Front Case Assembly/Oil Pump New
1.39 ACT Carbon Fibre Airbox Assembly to suit Jenvey Throttle Bodies
1.40 JUN 288 deg inlet and exhaust billet cams - 11mm lift
1.41 JUN Valve Spring
1.42 JUN Titanium Retainer
1.43 Power Entreprise Super Strong Kevlar Timing Belt
1.44 Bosch 412cc Top Feed, High Impedence Fuel Injectors
1.45 Starter - High Speed (Evo 3)
1.46 AP racing clutch master cylinder with remote reservoir and Earls AN fittings
1.47 Coolingmist Super Atomizing injector

2 Fuel System
2.1 Earl's Inline Fuel Filter complete with SS braided hoses and Earls Swivelseal AN fittings
2.2 SARD Fuel Pressure Regulator with SS braided hoses and Earls SwivelsealAN fittings
2.3 Fuel Pressure Gauge
2.4 Greddy Fuel Pressure Sensor
2.5 Earl's Line Clamp and Hose Separator
2.6 Earl's Hose - longer hose fitted for better routing


3 Exhaust System
3.1 RACE 4-1 LP SS Header and Port Matched
3.2 TONNKA SS Rear N1 style rear box with 2.5 in inlet
3.3 TONNKA SS exhaust piping w SS hangers and option of straight pipe and resonator box section
3.4 Hot Bits stainless steel resonators (X2)
3.5 Ralliart exhaust hanger (X2)


4 Electronics/Engine Management
4.1 Haltech Platinum Sport 1000 Standalone ECU
4.2 Dynatek ARC2 CDI Ignition
4.3 Coil on Plugs - Set of 6 coils
4.4 Coil on Plugs - wiring and mounted on CNC machined Aluminium Plate
4.5 Phormula KS-4 Engine Knock Monitor
4.6 HKS DB Chrono Oil Press, Oil Temp and Vacumm Gauges
4.7 Haltech Racepak IQ3 Data Logger Dash
4.8 Innovate Wideband Lambda Sensor - LC1 - wired to Haltech and values displayed on Racepak Dash.
4.9 Racepak USM + Vnet Tee
4.10 Jenvey Dynamics Contactless TPS


5 Chassis/Steering/Bodywork/Aerodynamics
5.1 Ralliart Center Member Front Axle Upper Bushing
5.2 Ralliart Center Member Front Axle Lower Bushing
5.3 Ralliart Rear Upper Arm Bush Bodyside
5.4 Ralliart Rear Lower Arm Bush Bodyside
5.5 Ultra Racing 3 Point Fender Bar
5.6 Ultra Racing C Pillar Bar
5.7 Ultra Racing Room Bar
5.8 Safety21 6 point Dash Dodger Bolt on Roll Cage - powder coated black and with SS316 stiffener plates. All bolts in SS304
5.9 Mitsubishi CP/CT9A Lancer EVO5-7 boot reinforcement bar
5.10 R3 Stage 2 Front Splitter (replica)
5.11 Autofoam automotive high density foam
5.12 SR Composites carbon strut bar - front
5.13 Hot Bits aluminium strut bar - rear
5.14 Proton Wira SE/Arena front grill and mark top
5.15 Mitsubishi CA4A Mirage Asti MIVEC rear spoiler/wing
5.16 Superpro steering rack bush kit
5.17 SR Composites front and rear number plates
5.18 SR Composites carbon pillar garnish
5.19 Racecraft non-vented carbon bonnet
5.20 SR Composites carbon battery tray
5.21 Wiring and termination work to relocate battery to boot
5.22 Odyssey PC680MJ dry cell lightweight race battery

6 Interior
6.1 R3 Carbon Fibre Gear Knob
6.2 Momo Jet Steering Wheel
6.3 Works Bell Rapfix 2 Quick Release Steering Boss kit
6.4 Recaro SPG Carbon Kevlar
6.5 Sabelt 4 point FIA approved Ultralight Harness with Aluminium Adjusters for driver seat
6.6 Sabelt 4 point FIA approved Lightweight Harness with steel Adjusters for passenger seat
6.7 Bride Ultra Low Seat Railing - Driver Side
6.8 6mil Security Tint + 2nd layer Black Tint
6.9 BSCI 40mm Roll Cage Padding - FIA approved
6.10 SR Composites carbon pedals
6.11 Proton Motorsports R3 floor matts

7 Suspension
7.1 Ohlins PCV Coilover 8kg F and 6kg R
7.2 Ohlins Front Top Pillowball Mount
7.3 Ohlins Rear Top Pillowball Mount
7.4 CE9A Lancer EVO2-3 rear upper and lower suspension links
7.5 Superpro PU front lower control arm bush kit
7.6 Stainless steel centre sleeve for front lower arm bush kit (X2)
7.7 Superpro PU rear trailing arm front bush kit
7.8 Stainless steel centre sleeve for trailing arm bush kit (X2)
7.9 Mitsubishi CE9A Lancer EVO2-3 rear lower arm
7.1 Mitsubishi CD9A Lancer EVO1/M21 97 spec front 23mm anti-roll bar
7.11 Superpro PU front anti-roll bar D bush - 23mm
7.12 Superpro PU front anti-roll bar link shoulder bush kit (X8)
7.13 Whiteline rear 18mm adjustable anti-roll bar
7.14 Superpro PU rear anti-roll bar D bush - 18mm
7.15 Mitsubishi CE9A Lancer EVO2-3 rear anti-roll bar link kit

8 Transmission and Drivetrain
8.1 Symborski Gear Shifter Bush
8.2 Titanium Fasteners for Symborski Kit
8.3 Goodridge stainless steel clutch line
8.4 Exedy racing clutch (disc + pressure plate/clutch cover)
8.5 Jun forged chrome molybdenum lightweight flywheel
8.6 Kaaz Powerpot series 1.5 way limited slip differential
8.7 CA4A Mirage MIVEC 4.592 final drive + machined F5M22VRXE gearbox casing to fit FD

9 Brakes
9.1 Wilwood Polymatrix B compound (Part No: 15B-7264K)
9.2 70mm silicon hose for brake ducting - 2m length
9.3 ACT dry carbon air horn
9.4 Goodridge stainless steel brake lines (front and rear)
9.5 Wilwood Dynapro 4 pot calipers
9.6 EBC standard Kevlar brake pads (rear)
9.7 DBA Longlife Slotted brake discs (front)
9.8 DBA Longlife GOLD crossed-drilled and slotted brake discs (rear)
9.9 Ralliart long hub bolt/lug (66mm)
9.10 7075 aluminium alloy CNC machined brake caliper adapter kit and 12mm wheel spacer
9.11 Mitsubishi CE9A Lancer EVO2-3 1" brake master cylinder
9.12 Cusco Brake Cylinder Stopper (BCS)


10 Wheels/Tyres
10.1 P1 Racing Replica 15x7 4x100 rims - Track Use
10.2 Silverstone slicks 19/58-15 - Track Use
10.3 SSR Type C 16" X 7" rims (X4) - Street Use
10.4 Racing Gear forged 7075 aluminium alloy lug nuts
10.5 6061 Aluminium alloy centre bore centering rings (X4)

11 In Car Entertainment
None - just wind down the window and rev to 8.8k rpm

Lubricants, Coolant & Consumables
Motul 300V competition 10w40
Neo Synthetic LW18 gear oil
Neo Synthetic brake fluid
Motul Inugel Radiator Coolant

Water Methanol Injecton

I have now been using water methanol injection for SP over the last one year and I must say I am enjoying it and glad that I decided to install it. There are many benefits of running water injection, and below is the explanation from Coolingmist themselves:

"Water injection, alcohol injection, water methanol injection or methanol injection are all the same thing. The only difference is the fluid you are injecting. Having a chemical intercooler or water injection, methanol injection or alcohol injection will cool the combustion temperature of your engine by cooling your charge. A super fine mist of methanol, water or alcohol combination will evaporate and soak up the heat. This cools your temperatures and raises the effective octane of your fuel. In most cases you will not need to run race fuel and pump gas will be fine. A water injection pump...methanol injection pump or alcohol injection pump is very important. The higher pressure your pump, the better that atomization will be in your water methanol injection system. "

As SP is running a very high compression ratio, it is necessary to find ways to minimize knock and increase ignition timing which are really the key to making power in NA engines. The results of water injection in a turbo charged engined is much greater than NA engines. Nevertheless, I am also interested in the other benefit of water injection, which is a much cleaner engine as well, as it also helps to steam clean the internals, especially those in the combustion chamber.

The kit that I am using is from Coolingmist who my bro Jack, has been using in his previous ride with good performance and reliability. The trunkmount kit comes with the standard 100PSI pump, 1 gallon water tank, piping, injector and mounting hardware. I opted to have the stainless steel braided lines and as well as ordered water injection controller called the Vari-Cool. This controller lets me vary the activation point and also a min and max setpoint, plus the allowance to control the amount of flow into the engine. This allows me to fine tune the water injection flow rate and also have a 50% flow during part throttle application if required. Currently for SP the activation is set using the TPS position. The TPS provides a 0-5v signal, which is then fed to the Vari-Cool controller, and from this we can set at which TPS position the water injection will activate. For example, at 50% TPS or less no water injection, from 50-80% TPS, injection at 50% of flow rate, and at 100%TPS full flow is provided.

This allows me to vary the usage of the water injection depending on how and where I am driving the car. I can also go one step higher by having this 3D mapped by my ECU like my fuel and ignition maps, but didnt want the added complications. I am currently using a 50/50 mix between water and methanol. Havent tried running full methanol although the system and engine is fully capable of this.

I have since changed to the larger pump by Coolingmist which produces 200-250 PSI pressure and also the Coolingmist Super Atomizing Injector for more flow and better atomisation. The higher the pressure, the finer the atomization of the water methanol mixture and provides more heat absorbing capacity. I have also added a LED on the dash to indicate when the pump is operating and this also provides indication if there is problem with the system. So far I am enjoying this mod and also have been stocking up on methanol :)

Enjoy the pictures.

The water tank complete with the pump. This is the earlier version 100psi pump

Another view of the tank and pump assembly

Closeup of the 100 psi pump

The optional stainless steel braided hose along with steel fittings (not shown)

The Vari-Cool controller. Takes in either a pressure (boost) or 0-5v input signal. Green knob is for the lower limit setting (start 50% flow) and red knob for the higher limit setting (start 100% flow).

The mounting hardware

The Vari-Cool controller installed where the radio used to be. Below it is my knock sensor

Tank and pump installed in the boot

I didnt want to drill the boot so a custom mounting tray was fabricated from Aluminium

All installed

Dyno chart and Header experiments!

Boy it has been quite a long time since my last post. Been quite busy with work and travels and also with my family. Not easy finding time nowadays!

Well first up would be my dyno chart, should have posted it up a long time ago but havent got the chance. This was done after I have changed to a full 2.5in exhaust setup with straight pipe and rear muffler from Tonnka. All of the work was carried out by the main man of Tonnka himself and I must give my hats off to their work and quality of stuff they manufacture!! Also running water/methanol injection during this run.

As you can see from the chart above, I am very very pleased with the results. My only gripe is to smoothen the mid range to remove the 'W' in the mid range. To date I have also experimented with a different header configuration (4-2-1), very long primary, tri-y design which was custom made by Tonnka. Although this improved the mid range by a whopping +16whp, I lost quite a bit on the top end about -10whp. So I went back to the previous header which is a 4-1 style from Formworks. I have a new header from Tonnka which I have yet to try, let see how much it helps.

Tonnka Special for 4G93

Close up of the header.

Looks more like turbo header

Taken out after dyno- note color change after just 1 hour on the dyno

I have also got SP in the track at last and least to say I am still learning its new power delivery and also mastering all the gadgets on SP. Whats coming up, a revised brake setup and a new look! Watch this space!

Intake Setup

As you probably now know, SP has been running on the Jenvey Dynamics Individual Throttle Body (ITB) setup. Here is a breakdown of the bits that is required to complete the install.

1. Jenvey Dynamics Manifold to suit SF throttle bodies for Proton/Mitsubishi (part no: MPN01)

2. Jenvey Dynamics SF throttle bodies - 45mm tapered x 4 nos (part no: SF45)

3. Jenvey Dynamics Air horn (part no: AH45x60)

4. Jenvey Dynamics Fuel Rail (part no: SFR4/88)

5. Jenvey Dynamics Fuel Rail Mounting (part no: SFRC2)

6. Jenvey Dynamics Linkage Kit (part no: CLS1)

7. Jenvey Dynamics Linkage brackets and rod - SF (part no: LBF2)

8. ACT dry carbon airbox

9. Bosch 412cc Top Feed, High Impedence Injectors

10. TPS - Colvern CP17 - Motorsport spec (part no: TP1)

11. Phenolic gasket

12. Earls Swivelseal fittings and hose for fuel supply and return.

I actually bought three sets of airbox, one from Pipercross which comes with its own filtration system and also one from K&N (universal airbox), but both of them did not provide what I was looking for. But it helped to develop the current box in terms of available space and design. Luckily with parts bought from UK, if not used can be returned.

The JD throttle bodies are of a taper design, so at the throttle plate(butterfly) it is 45 mm and 48mm at the inlet of the body. This allows for high velocity through the port and promotes better combustion as well. The air horns were also changed due to its length, it was suggested to run longer horns but due to the space constraint I have gone for the 70mm long air horns instead of the 120mm ones. They also had a CF version of the air horns, but I was advised against it, as if there is crack or damage to the horns, it will be sucked into the engine and destroying it as well. So I decided to stick with the aluminium horns.

Fitting was not straightword unfortunately as SP cylinder head was massively ported and the inlet port of the head was a lot larger then the JD manifold. So we had to do a lot of customisation work to get this fitted and port matching to suit. I was really happy with the work done by GT Auto to ensure it was all done properly and professionally.

I will let the pictures speak for themselves

Manifold - View from Throttle Body end

Manifold - Top View. Note the Jenvey casting between cylinder 2 & 3

Manifold - View from cylinder head side. We had to do a lot of modification on this side to get it to fit on SP

SF Throttle Bodies - 45mm tapered bore

SF Throttle Bodies - view from side. For turbo high power application you can order the same body with two injectors.

60mm Air Horns

Colvern Motorsports Spec TPS

ACT Dry Carbon Airbox and backplate with 4in inlet

Airbox and backplate fitted together

Bosch 412cc Injectors

Manifold, air horn and ITB all mocked up together. Notice the longer air horn which was purchased initially

Another view this time with Jenvey Dynamics filter. Backplate not shown. The filter and backplate are actually from Pipercross

The other airbox which I bought

Manifold and ITB fitted on the engine after massive modification to the manifold's flange

Harnessing SP

As SP is my dedicated track day machine, I have decided to invest in proper race harness. On one of my visit to the UK, I dropped by Demon Tweeks and bought 2 4 point FIA spec Sabelt harness. These are the 3 in wide shoulder and waist straps and with a n aircraft quick release buckle. They are also able to accommodate a crotch strap enabling them to be a 5 or 6 point harness. Being the weight conscious person that I am (on SP that is, I personally have been gaining the pounds), I decided to purchase the ultralight version (Demon Tweeks part no: 904570E) , which has the shoulder belt adjustment buckle in aluminium rather than steel. Unfortunately Demon Tweeks only carried one of these in stock and I had to settle for the lightweight version (Demon Tweeks part no : 904183E) for the passenger side.

These are fully FIA approved and are certified for use up to 2014. Unfortunately neither I nor SP will be participating in any FIA sanctioned event for now. Who knows what the future might hold! These harness comes with the eyebolts which bolts on directly to the existing seatbelt points in the car. For the rear as I have removed the rear seats, they bolt on directly to the rear seatbelt mounting points. They also make one version with roll bar attachment, which I didn’t opt for.

Some pictures of the harnesses and also the install picture just for the driver side currently.

Harness assembled on the floor

Close up of the quick release buckle

The mounting end of the harness with eyebolts shown

Standard rear seatbelt mounting points on the rear bulkhead. PnP

Another view. This are the original rear seat belt mounting point. You can see the bolts on the right which are for the rear left side seatbelt mounting points.

Aluminium shoulder strap adjusters and also the 3in shoulder pads

Fully installed