It's time to move on. I'm selling the SP and it's parts. Price of car would depend on specs wanted with it. Asking for RM35K for base car complete with 180+hp engine, some cf stuff and full superpro bushes, complete rear evo suspension
arms. Price of parts for sale.
Full carbon bonnet. 100% cf with no csm layer. Weights
4.5kg including frame. Stainless steel hook catch –
RM3K
Full carbon GT side mirror – RM500
Full carbon spark plug cover – RM200
Carbon timing belt cover – RM300
SSR Type C 16” X 7” wheels complete with Advan Neova [SOLD 30/8]
AD07 205-45 series tyres – RM3K [SOLD 30/8]
Racing Gear 7075 aluminium alloy forged lugnuts (16 pieces) – RM250 [SOLD 30/8]
Wilwood brake kit. Includes Dynapro calipers, wildwood
pads, brake hose + end fitting, caliper adapter and
12mm space – RM3.5K
Works Bell Rapfix II quick release boss kit – RM650 [SOLD 31/8]
Momo Corse Model 78 steering wheel (leather) – RM350 [SOLD 31/8]
Kaaz Powerpot 1.5 way plate limited slip differential
– RM2K. RM3K if include MIVEC gb and Jun lightweight
flywheel
Rear Whiteline 2-way adjustable GTI-spec anti-roll bar
(18mm) complete with Superpro D bushes – RM500
Rear Hot Bits strut bar – RM100
Front carbon strut bar with CNC machine aluminium
alloy end mounts – RM850
Carbon R3 shift knob – RM100 [SOLD 25/8]
Cusco brake cylinder stopper – RM200
Cusco oil catch can complete with Goodridge 200 series
hoses and Goodridge hose finishers – RM350
DMS 50mm WRC Group N spec dampers. 2 way independently
adjustable (20 for compression and 4 for rebound)
complete with Cusco pillowball aluminium plate top
mounts and DMS adapters – RM5.5K [SOLD]
Samco radiator hoses – RM200 [SOLD 31/8]
Carbon slam panel - RM200 [SOLD 25/8]
Ralliart engine oil cap – RM200 [SOLD 1/9]
Ralliart radiator cap 1.1 kg/cm – RM90 [SOLD 1/9]
Odyssey PC680 MJT battery including carbon battery
tray, wiring and termination – RM550
If you want the engine, find me a stock decent 4G93P engine, ECU and add in RM2K
Price negotiable. Serious enquiries pls contact me @ llsaw1@yahoo.com. And I really mean serious enquiries. Selling things on the net is becoming a big hassle nowadays. Lotsa emails for pixs requests, etc, etc and that's it. Also I know the market price and what I'm offering. No offence but contact me only and only if you can really afford. Also if you have a counter offer pls make it reasonable. Do not waste my time and yours. As an example one person tried bring the price of my Sentra's less than 2 month old CD MP3 head unit to RM150 when a brand new set will set u back bout RM600+.
So the answer to WHY?
1. I barely have time nowadays to mod or run the SP. Only ever run the SP during weekends. Mileage is down to about 30-40km per week.
2. I don't really have the excess cash to justify playing around with 2 cars. Make that 3 if I include the other half's Optra.
3. Getting really disillusioned and sick with having to do nearly every other mod myself and with the local mod industry. There's still no dyno today in Penang so this means any engine mods means a trip down to KL. I've also been waiting for some development parts for close to a year.
4. To really further take the SP to the next level would require big big bucks. Something which I can ill afford as I have a semi-d house which I need to furnish and renovate. That should nicely take up all my time and finances for the next 6 months or so.
To sum it all up time is catching up fast. I'll continue this blog to the best of my ability as I still have lotsa remaining articles to write. Plus the development continues as my bro Jack is getting some of the SP's works parts and is continuing to push the barrier! Finally to all you fellow Proton Wira, Satria, Putra & GTI/SR3 enthusiasts out there I would like to thank you for all the compliments. You guys and gals (I hope) have been wonderful. It's been great running this blog. Keep the mods coming.
Tuesday, August 22, 2006
Friday, August 04, 2006
Race Tech Magazine Braking Upgrade Calculator
The link below brings you to a very nifty Microsoft Excel spreadsheet which automatically calculates your braking requirements and upgrade to generate the ultimate stopping power you aspire to. The tool even calculates for you the weight transfer under braking for your car, how much stopping power you are generating at each end of your car and even possible caliper piston sizes vs master cylinder ratio. So if you even wondered whether this 10 piston caliper with 40mm diameter pistons and 350mm diameter rotor will suit you car with a 1" master cylinder use this tool. Fab stuff! I spent countless time playing with the thing.
Race Tech's Braking Model
For starters try this. Stock GTi/Putra uses a single piston sliding caliper with a 54mm diameter piston, 256mm front rotor/260mm rear rotor and 15/16" or 23.8125mm master cylinder. The EVO1-3's twin piston caliper uses twin 42.9mm pistons, 276mm front rotor/260mm rear rotor and 1" or 25.4mm master cylinder. First person to calculate the difference in piston area for the Putra vs the EVO1-3 and the disc/rotor torque on one wheel assuming both use the same coefficient friction pads wins a free teh tarik from me :)
And pls.. Getting your stock rotors drilled will not give you more stopping power. Period! It will only make the shop drilling your rotors richer at the expense of your money.
Race Tech's Braking Model
For starters try this. Stock GTi/Putra uses a single piston sliding caliper with a 54mm diameter piston, 256mm front rotor/260mm rear rotor and 15/16" or 23.8125mm master cylinder. The EVO1-3's twin piston caliper uses twin 42.9mm pistons, 276mm front rotor/260mm rear rotor and 1" or 25.4mm master cylinder. First person to calculate the difference in piston area for the Putra vs the EVO1-3 and the disc/rotor torque on one wheel assuming both use the same coefficient friction pads wins a free teh tarik from me :)
And pls.. Getting your stock rotors drilled will not give you more stopping power. Period! It will only make the shop drilling your rotors richer at the expense of your money.
Ralliart Engine Mounts
Most petrolheads get excited when “glamorous” mods such as turbokits, bodykits, gt wings, cams, intakes and exhaust are being discussed. Tell them you just spend a couple hundred bucks on engine mounts and the exclamation would be “WTF!”
Like suspension bushes, the engine mount is an indispensable part of a vehicle. It’s simple function is to attach the engine to the vehicle at it's designated position while eliminating vibration and unnecessary engine/gearbox movement. If you’ve got 25% or more additional power from the engine it’s time to look for stiffer mounts as the stock softy mounts are probably way past their limit. And no you won’t get 25% more power with just an intake, header and exhaust. If you persist problems such as broken engine mounts and exhaust will occur in due time. This is due to too much engine movement as the stock mounts are unable to control the engine movement. Having previously broken my exhaust twice due to too much engine movement I can tell you this fact is true.
I was originally using the WRC Motorsports upgraded solid engine mounts but these do not last. The bottom mount cracked in less than 3000km! The term “solid” means there are no gaps or holes in the engine mount’s rubber leading to a stiffer mount. Have since upgraded to Ralliart engine mounts for the 2 bottom engine mounts while retaining the WRC Motorsport mounts for the other 2 top left and right engine mounts. The 4G93 uses 4 engine mounts to hold the engine to the chassis. The are 2 at the bottom controlling longitudinal movement (front and back) and 2 on top at each side of the engine controlling transverse movement (right and left). This mounting config is the same for all variants of the 4G92 and also the 4G63 EVO1-3. The Ralliart Group N engine mounts are made from HS80 rubber for the bottom 2 mounts and HS90 rubber for the top 2 mounts. They are very hard. My advice for most people is to only upgrade the bottom 2 while retaining the stock for the top 2. If you’re a sucker for punishment or have a vibration fetish you can go for all 4!
Picture below of the Ralliart front lower engine mount (Part Number RA581297K1).
Picture below of the Ralliart rear lower engine mount (Part Number RA309269K2).
As you can see from the pixs above these mounts are really beefy and hard!
The part number for the top 2 mounts is RA871602K1. The part number is the same for both (left and right) mounts. Do bear in mind the Ralliart engine mounts do not come with the mounting brackets so the stock mounts will have to be pressed-out of the stock brackets and the Ralliart mounts pressed-in in place. I elected to buy new stock engine mounts complete with brackets as these are fairly cheap. Dutifully sandpapered the stock brackets and had them resprayed in matt black. With the new mounts installed engine movement is totally minimized under hard acceleration and shifting. The other positive side effect is quicker shifts as a result of the minimized engine and gearbox movement. The downside to all this would be even more vibration at idle but hey if you’re on big cams big deal! If you want less vibration try something softer like R3 engine mounts. I would stay away from the WRC Motorsports engine mounts (at least for the bottom mounts) as they don’t last. A flashy engine damper might make the engine bay look racier but they cost more (the branded ones at least) and the effect is not as good. Nothing beats upgraded engine mounts IMHO. Also if you’re curious, race-only cars run aluminium/metal engine mounts.
Like suspension bushes, the engine mount is an indispensable part of a vehicle. It’s simple function is to attach the engine to the vehicle at it's designated position while eliminating vibration and unnecessary engine/gearbox movement. If you’ve got 25% or more additional power from the engine it’s time to look for stiffer mounts as the stock softy mounts are probably way past their limit. And no you won’t get 25% more power with just an intake, header and exhaust. If you persist problems such as broken engine mounts and exhaust will occur in due time. This is due to too much engine movement as the stock mounts are unable to control the engine movement. Having previously broken my exhaust twice due to too much engine movement I can tell you this fact is true.
I was originally using the WRC Motorsports upgraded solid engine mounts but these do not last. The bottom mount cracked in less than 3000km! The term “solid” means there are no gaps or holes in the engine mount’s rubber leading to a stiffer mount. Have since upgraded to Ralliart engine mounts for the 2 bottom engine mounts while retaining the WRC Motorsport mounts for the other 2 top left and right engine mounts. The 4G93 uses 4 engine mounts to hold the engine to the chassis. The are 2 at the bottom controlling longitudinal movement (front and back) and 2 on top at each side of the engine controlling transverse movement (right and left). This mounting config is the same for all variants of the 4G92 and also the 4G63 EVO1-3. The Ralliart Group N engine mounts are made from HS80 rubber for the bottom 2 mounts and HS90 rubber for the top 2 mounts. They are very hard. My advice for most people is to only upgrade the bottom 2 while retaining the stock for the top 2. If you’re a sucker for punishment or have a vibration fetish you can go for all 4!
Picture below of the Ralliart front lower engine mount (Part Number RA581297K1).
Picture below of the Ralliart rear lower engine mount (Part Number RA309269K2).
As you can see from the pixs above these mounts are really beefy and hard!
The part number for the top 2 mounts is RA871602K1. The part number is the same for both (left and right) mounts. Do bear in mind the Ralliart engine mounts do not come with the mounting brackets so the stock mounts will have to be pressed-out of the stock brackets and the Ralliart mounts pressed-in in place. I elected to buy new stock engine mounts complete with brackets as these are fairly cheap. Dutifully sandpapered the stock brackets and had them resprayed in matt black. With the new mounts installed engine movement is totally minimized under hard acceleration and shifting. The other positive side effect is quicker shifts as a result of the minimized engine and gearbox movement. The downside to all this would be even more vibration at idle but hey if you’re on big cams big deal! If you want less vibration try something softer like R3 engine mounts. I would stay away from the WRC Motorsports engine mounts (at least for the bottom mounts) as they don’t last. A flashy engine damper might make the engine bay look racier but they cost more (the branded ones at least) and the effect is not as good. Nothing beats upgraded engine mounts IMHO. Also if you’re curious, race-only cars run aluminium/metal engine mounts.
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